Old Road was the very first British town
in the entire Caribbean. Sir Thomas
Warner landed at Old Road Bay on
28th January 1623 with fifteen settlers.
The Carib Chieftain, Tegreman, met
him. The Indians had their villages and
ritual grounds in this area.
Unfortunately, the only indications of
their existence in that area are the
stone petroglyphs that can be seen on
the left hand side of the road to
Romney Manor.
A childhood friend of Sir Thomas
Warner, Samuel Jefferson, a grandfather
of the American statesman, and buried
in the same graveyard as Sir Thomas at
Middle Island, was given a thousand acre
land grant for a property named
Wingfield Estate. This was the only
estate to use a water wheel for power
and the remnants of the brick
aqueduct still stand some distance up
the road.
The Romney Family later leased
this land and today it is home of the
Caribelle Batik and The Botanical
Gardens of Romney Manor. Artisans
at the batik factory provide live demonstrations of the complicated
process of turning soft Sea Island cotton
into colourful batiks. The beautifully
restored gardens surrounding the 17th
Century sugar estate feature a
magnificent old Saman tree. It requires
a wide-angle lens to photograph.
A drive up the twisty narrow road
beyond Wingfield leads to the former
military road that allows you an
incredible view looking down on
Brimstone Hill.
You will pass through St. Thomas,
Middle Island where the first Anglican
Church in the British Caribbean still
stands, as well as the tombs of Sir
Thomas Warner and Samuel
Jefferson.
Perhaps the most well known attraction
on St. Kitts is Brimstone Hill Fortress
National Park. Designated a World
Heritage site by UNESCO in October
2000. Built over a period of 104 years
beginning in 1690, British authorities
consider the fortress to be one of the
finest examples of British military
architecture in the world. (See a
related story in this issue.)
Your tour continues around through
Sandy Point, the second largest town
on the Island. You might wish to stop
and see the architectural beauty of St.
Anne’s Anglican Church on your
left, and further into town, Sacred
Heart Roman Catholic Church.
Heading out of town and through
the countryside, you’ll get lovely views
of the Dutch islands, St. Eustatius
and Saba and on to Dieppe Bay Town
located at the northwest corner of the
island. You will come to a turnoff for
Rawlins Plantation Inn located at
the top of an unpaved cane road and
well worth a visit. When you get to
Dieppe Bay town, which was the Protestant French commercial capital in
the late 16th century, you will have
travelled halfway around the island.
Take a left at the sign for the Golden
Lemon and drive to the end of the road.
The view of the surf rolling in on
the protective reef at this point is truly
remarkable. Taxi drivers like to tell
visitors that this is where the Atlantic
Ocean meets the Caribbean Sea. The
Golden Lemon Inn itself dates from
1610 and was built by the Huguenots,
and is the oldest occupied residence on
the Island. There’s a small safe beach
and good snorkelling on the reef if you
care to stop for a while.
As you’ve been going around this part of
the country you’ve had the opportunity
to view different aspects of majestic
Mount Liamuiga (3,792ft), the highest
point in the Lesser Antilles chain. You
may want to explore its rainforests or to climb to the crater, just make sure you have a
guide. Just after Saddlers village you will come
to St. John’s Anglican Church in Bellevue
Village where you will also find the natural
wonder of Black Rocks. These volcanic
formations resulted from the pyroclastic flows of
lava when Mount Liamuiga (formerly known as
Mt. Misery) erupted centuries ago. The volcano
has been dormant for centuries, too.
Continuing around the island you will
eventually take a sharp right and drive up a
long hill. At the top you will take a left, there’s
a big church on your right, and come round a
corner to another spectacular view into the
hills. A dip and a rise brings you to Ottley’s
Village and Ottley’s Plantation Inn, a
hillside hostelry boasting its own exotic rain
forest.
Take a look.
Our tour’s almost over. You’re heading back to Basseterre
and will drive through the Island’s third largest town, Cayon,
just beyond it is turn-off to Spooners’ on your right. Here
you’ll find the ruins of a cotton ginnery, the machinery still in
place.
From here it’s a drive back to the airport and town. We
hope you enjoyed your welcome to our world.
By the way, if driving and touring by taxi isn’t your thing,
take a ride on the St. Kitts Scenic Railway. The doubledecker,
air-conditioned trains run on the old narrow gauge
sugar train tracks. You’ll see the island from an entirely
different perspective as you journey round. Talk about a photo
op! There is music, entertainment, samples of local food treats,
and an expert narration – often given by yours truly. Welcome
aboard!
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